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Introduction
Punctured by the Rift Valley, which is part of the great geological fracture that runs from Syria through the Red Sea and East Africa to southern Africa, Kenya's diverse landscapes are its major attraction. Sitting astride the equator, Kenya has a low-lying Indian Ocean coast of white-sand beaches fringed with coral reefs and islands, while across the central plateau the savannah and acacia-studded bush is the favorite habitat for a full range of African animals harbored in a number of national parks and game reserves. To the north is an area of inhospitable desert, where Lake Turkana cuts a bright blue swath across the stony landscape. In the west are lush, agricultural highlands of sleek green coffee and tea plantations that give rise to the lofty mountains of Mount Kenya, the Aberdares, and Mount Elgon.
Over the centuries Kenya was settled by a vast number of tribes from all over Africa, as well as traders from Persia and Arabia who lent a distinctly Eastern atmosphere to the coast. This gave rise to the Swahili culture and language, a mix of various traditions, religions, and local beliefs influenced by 2,000 years of trade with the East. With its old fort and ancient harbor, Mombasa is the capital of the coast, and today is in the center of a long string of beachside vacation resorts. Inland, Kenya's principal city of Nairobi is a melting pot of cultures where red -- robed Masai warriors stroll among the skyscrapers alongside be-suited business people.
But the real draw to Kenya is going on safari (meaning "journey" in Swahili), in the numerous national parks and game reserves. Kenya is home to the Big Five -- elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo and rhino -- which were once the favorite trophies for game hunters but are now some of the more popular animals to watch on a game drive. One-tenth of Kenya is occupied by parks and reserves, and in the ocean aquatic life is protected in a number of marine parks.
Experiences
Watch the Wildebeest Migration: Witness one of the world's most spectacular movements of wildlife when millions of wildebeest and their zebra friends move through the Masai Mara Game Reserve and Tanzania's neighboring Serengeti National Park on an annual migration following the rains and new grazing. The predators follow them, and during the birthing seasons there are easy pickings to be had. You can see the biggest density of animals in the Masai Mara from July to August.
Climb Mount Kenya: There are three routes to the top of the second tallest mountain in Africa at 5,199m (17,058 ft.), and it's a more technical climb than Kilimanjaro in neighboring Tanzania, but it's a great way to enjoy the mountain scenery and see snow on the equator. The views from the top across the clouds to the peak of Kilimanjaro are incredible.
Snorkel in the Indian Ocean: With warm temperatures, clear waters, and a myriad of interesting marine life, Kenya's coast is ideal for snorkeling. The long fringing coral reefs attract thousands of tropical reef fish, lobsters, turtles, and rays, and are protected in several marine parks. For those who don't want to get wet, the reefs can also be explored by glass-bottomed boat.
Balloon over the Masai Mara: One of the top things to do in Kenya is hot air ballooning at dawn over the Masai Mara -- especially during the wildebeest migration. Apart from the hiss of the burners, the flight is magically silent and there are magnificent views over the smooth golden grassy plains and purple hills.
Watch Baby Elephants Play: The David Sheldrick Orphanage in Nairobi National Park cares for baby elephants that were abandoned or orphaned in the wild, until they are old enough to be re-released. Visitors can watch the elephants playing with each other and their keepers, which is a delightful experience; the orphanage is also home to some baby rhinos.
Laikipia Plateau: Kenya's newest tourist attraction (and still unknown to most tourists), Laikipia is a patchwork of game ranches protecting a large wilderness area in central Kenya. It's Big Five territory, and the region now has the largest concentration of animals outside the Masai Mara. A safari experience here is very personal, as most of the up market lodges are hosted by ranch owners and guests will gain insight into wildlife conservation.
Lake Naivasha: An easy drive from Nairobi, Lake Naivasha is a pretty lake dotted with papyrus and surrounded by forests of giant acacia trees where black and white colobus monkeys play. The country lodges and campsites on the shores allow day visitors, so you can take boat rides on the lake to get close to the hippos and birds, or go on game walks to see antelope, zebras, and giraffes in the Crescent Island Game Sanctuary. Also on the lake is Elsamere, the former home of Joy Adamson of Born Free fame and is now a museum and tea garden.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Diani Reef Beach Resort: This all-around vacation resort is set in lush tropical gardens with landscaped lagoons. It's located on a great stretch of beach with plenty of activities and facilities on offer, including water sports, diving, golf, a spa, and a casino.
Funzi Keys: This exclusive romantic hideaway is on its own island with accommodations in spacious stone-and-thatched cottages with four-poster beds, Jacuzzis, and private terraces. Activities include diving, canoeing, and bird-watching boat rides, and there's a large swimming pool.
Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel: The Mombasa Serena is a quality resort in gardens full of coconut palms overlooking the Mombasa Marine National Park. The architecture is Swahili-style, with cool arches, elaborate balconies, and carved doors. There are several restaurants and a full range of activities and entertainment.
Kilili Baharini: This very stylish Italian-run resort is set on a white-sand beach and features antiques-filled, spacious rooms clustered around five swimming pools. There's a health and beauty spa and top-notch Italian food in the restaurant.
Peponi's: Peponi's is a lovely terraced hotel overlooking the Lamu Channel and located within striding distance of the 12km (8-mile) Shela Beach. The rooms are individually decorated in bright, breezy decor, and fine dining is to be had in the romantic restaurant.
Best Safari Lodges
Governors Camps (Masai Mara Game Reserve): A clutch of up market and exclusive tented camps located in one of the Mara's best regions for game viewing, the Governors Camps are consistently voted as one of the best places to stay in the world. All episodes of the BBC's Big Cat Diary series were filmed in the vicinity. The cuisine, service, and accommodations are impeccable, and the safari guides are excellent.
Kichwa Tembo Bateleur and Tented Camps (Masai Mara Game Reserve): In the region where the movie Out of Africa was filmed, this camp has been designed to reflect the safari experience of the 1920s and '30s, with four-poster beds, beautiful antiques, personal butlers, and candlelight. Game drives and walks along the Mara River are on offer.
The Ark (Aberdares National Park): Built to resemble Noah's Ark, this affordable wooden lodge has picture windows and wooden decks overlooking a lively water hole that's floodlit at night and is popular with elephants and many other forest animals.
Mount Kenya Safari Club (Mount Kenya, east of Nanyuki): Once an illustrious club founded by American actor William Holden, this property has 115 villas and cottages lying across 40ha (100 acres) of landscaped gardens backed by forest on the lower slopes of Mount Kenya. Activities include golf, croquet, horseback riding, and day trips to the national parks; you can finish your day with a nine-course dinner.
Lewa Safari Camp (Lewa Wildlife Conservancy): Located on the Laikipia Plateau, Kenya's new hot-spot region for game watching is where previous cattle ranches are restocking their land with game. Lewa is home to the Big Five, and you can expect to see just as much game here as in the formal parks and reserves. Accommodations are in permanent en-suite tents, and there's a water hole that attracts elephants and rhinos.
Sweetwaters Tented Camp (Laikipia Plateau): This apparently has the highest ratio of game-to-land in Kenya, and is not only home to the Big Five but also has the largest rhino breeding colony in East Africa, plus a sanctuary for chimpanzees that were rescued from Burundi. The 30 luxury tents overlook a water hole.
Finch Hatton's (Tsavo West National Park): This is an award-winning luxury camp that oozes atmosphere and is named after Finch Hatton, an early-20th-century explorer. His legacy is a library of historic books, his favorite Mozart played on a gramophone, and antique furnishings. The tents have spacious terraces with daybeds.
Elephant Watch Safari Camp (Samburu National Reserve): Sleeping only 10 guests, this naturally constructed camp decorated with homemade furniture and colorful cloth is run by elephant conservationist Iain Douglas-Hamilton, who has played a leading role in stopping elephant poaching in Kenya. Elephants are always nearby, game drives are available, and you can meet strikingly dressed Samburu warriors.
Best Dinning
Nyama Choma: The staple meal across Kenya is nyama choma, which means "roasted meat" in Swahili. Hunks of beef or goat and sometimes game meat are roasted over an open charcoal fire, and it's usually served with kachumbari, a mixture of chopped or shredded vegetables in a vinegar or lemon-juice dressing.
Swahili Cooking: Swahili cuisine, like its language, is a blend of ingredients from all over the world. For hundreds of years the coast of Kenya was plied by traders from Asia, Persia, and Arabia, and these cuisines have influenced the African way of cooking and produced a unique Swahili taste. Spices include cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and there's a variety of dishes featuring seafood and tropical fruits. Try fragrant coconut prawn curries, coriander-laced baked fish, spicy tamarind dips, or aromatic crab bisque.
Carnivore (Nairobi): Hugely touristy but a Nairobi institution with a lively, packed-to-the-gills nightclub attached, most tour companies include a visit here on their itineraries. Meat is barbequed on Masai spears over a central fire pit, and waiters keep slicing it onto your plate until you surrender by dropping the little white flag in the middle of the table. Beef, pork, lamb, chicken, and some game meat like crocodile or ostrich are on offer, accompanied by a variety of sauces and starches. There are alternative vegetarian dishes, too.
Lord Erroll (Nairobi): One of East Africa's finest gourmet restaurants is tucked away in Nairobi's leafy suburbs, where crown cranes stalk the impeccable lawn and tables are elegantly dressed with white linen and silverware. Dishes on the a la carte menu take a French twist, while the legendary Sunday lunch buffet of a variety of roast meats, seafood, and salads is accompanied by a pianist.
Pasara Café (Nairobi): Located on the ground floor of Lonrho House, this is an excellent lunchtime spot in the heart of Nairobi and popular with business people. You can build your own sandwiches and omelet’s; there's hot tasty soup of the day, and a good selection of coffees and teas. Newspapers and magazines are available.
The Tamarind (Mombasa): This tourist trap is an undeniably stylish and memorable way of eating on the coast. The Tamarind restaurant is in a lovely white-washed, arched Moorish building with a terrace overlooking Mombasa's harbor, while the two Tamarind dhows (traditional white-sailed wooden boats) make two sailings a day for lunch and dinner to take in the view of Fort Jesus. Expect lots of excellent Swahili seafood -- the prawns, crab, and lobster are superb.
La Belle Inn (Naivasha): This is a handy stop in the town of Naivasha en route to Lake Naivasha, and also a worthwhile detour off the main road between Nairobi and Nakuru. The shady terrace is a great place for a cup of Kenyan coffee, and there's an expansive range of homemade pies, cakes, pastries, and sandwiches, as well as affordable full meals.
Peponi's (Lamu Island): Located under a trellis of bougainvillea at one of Lamu's best hotels, the stylish terrace restaurant and bar overlooks the ocean and beach from where you can watch local fisherman with their dhows. Snack on oysters and sandwiches; main courses include lobster and giant prawns. For something special, try the Swahili menu, which is eaten on the floor around a large brass platter.
Best Parks, Ranches & Reserves
Nairobi National Park (Nairobi): Against a backdrop of skyscrapers and only short drive from the city center, this park is the closest place to Nairobi to see a good range of animals. The open grass plains scattered with acacia bushes are home to zebras, antelope, cheetahs, and all of the Big Five except for elephants, though you can see baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage at the edge of the park. At the entrance to the park is the Safari Walk, which is the revamped original animal orphanage that now has spacious enclosures for the animals that visitors can see from an elevated boardwalk. You'll be well rewarded on a half-day game-viewing trip here and are almost guaranteed to spot rhino.
Lake Nakuru National Park (Nakuru): Situated just a stone's throw from Nakuru town, this attractive park surrounds Lake Nakuru, which is a haven for the pink lesser flamingo as well as hippos and the clawless otter. Other species include various antelope, giraffes, zebras, lions, and plenty of rhinos, and unusually leopards can be spotted during daylight hours in the arms of the giant yellow acacia trees near the entrance. There are great views from the park's rocky escarpments and ridges, and accommodation can be found at several lodges and campsites.
Tsavo National Park (main gates near Voi on the Nairobi-Mombasa road): One of Kenya's oldest and largest national parks, its proximity to the coast make it a popular safari excursion for visitors on beach vacations. The park is split by the Nairobi-Mombasa road and railway and is administered as Tsavo East and Tsavo West; its southern plains meet those in Tanzania's Serengeti National Park. The diverse range of habitats -- mountains, river forest, lakes, and grassland -- are home to rhinos, lions, leopards, crocodiles, waterbucks, kudu, gerenuk, hartebeest, and zebras, as well as some of the largest herds of elephants in Kenya. There are also about 500 species of birds, including ostriches and migratory birds like kestrels and buzzards. There are plenty of isolated lodges and campsites to choose from.
Amboseli National Park (main gate accessed from the Nairobi-Namanga road; www.kws.org): At the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro, only 40km (25 miles) away over the border in Tanzania, Amboseli is the place famous for its wonderful image of elephants on the grassy plains against a backdrop of Kilimanjaro's snow-covered peaks. Plentiful game includes zebras, wildebeest, giraffes, impalas, lions, and leopards, and bird-watchers may spot pelicans, African fish eagles, and pygmy falcons. The Masai, who live around the perimeter of the park, manage several wildlife conservation projects to protect the animals that migrate over the park's boundaries. As one of Kenya's most popular parks, there's a full range of accommodation.
Masai Mara National Reserve (near the town of Narok): Simply dubbed the Mara, this is easily Kenya's most famous park with an extraordinary density of animals including the Big Five. It's also the scene of the great wildebeest migration: During July and August many hundreds of thousands of wildebeest, plus smaller numbers of zebras and antelope, arrive in the Mara in search of fresh grazing from Tanzania's Serengeti National Park to the south. The predators follow the herds and this is the best time to get plenty of animal action, especially if you get the opportunity to see the wildebeest cross the Mara River where they have to dodge crocodiles, too. There are dozens of places to stay, from hotel-style lodges to tented camps.
Aberdares National Park (Central Highlands): Part of the Aberdare Mountain range, this park is unusual in that it lies above 2,100m (7,000 ft.), so it has a more alpine feel with mountains, streams, valleys, and moorland. But it's still home to game such as elephants, buffalo, lions, and rhinos, and the entire park is in the process of being fenced for added protection of the animals. The two principle lodges are Treetops, where Princess Elizabeth was staying in 1952 on the night her father died and she became queen, and the Ark, built in the shape of Noah's ark.
Mount Kenya National Park (Central Highlands): At 5,117m (17,058 ft.), Mount Kenya is the second tallest mountain in Africa. Although not as popular as Kilimanjaro and a little more technical, it can be climbed by novices on organized 4-day tours. The vegetation and scenery naturally varies depending on the elevation; hardwood forests are found on the lower slopes, while the upper reaches give way to bamboo forest and moorland.
Kakamega Forest National Reserve (Western Kenya): Kakamega is the only natural tropical rainforest left in Kenya, which was once long ago joined to the equatorial rainforests of West Africa. It's an extraordinarily beautiful and dense forest of towering trees and tangled vines, which in turn attract an array of birds and butterflies, and you may spot monkeys bounding through the trees overhead. Trails criss-cross the park and visitors are accompanied by knowledgeable local guides. The best time to visit is during the rainy season from April to July, when the flowers bloom.
Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves (Isiolo): These adjoining reserves are usually visited as part of a tour to northern Kenya, and there are four lodges in the Samburu section overlooking the Ewaso Ng'iro River, where most of the game is concentrated. Animals include giraffes, elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, lions, leopards, cheetahs, and hyenas, and over 365 species of birds. Species here not seen further south are Grevy's zebras, Somali ostriches, and gerenuk, an unusual antelope that can reach up to trees on its hind legs.
Beach
Northern beaches: A coastal highway runs north from Mombasa all the way to Kenya's northern frontier and provides access to Kenya's northern beaches. From the outskirts of Mombasa there's a string of popular vacation resorts that finally peter out on the north side of Malindi, from where the road continues through coastal bush to the islands of the Lamu Archipelago. Each resort has access to the beach, and the Indian Ocean marine life of coral, fish, sea turtles, and dolphins can be seen by snorkeling and diving or more sedately from a dhow or glass-bottomed boat. Directly north of Mombasa, the palm-fringed Nyali and Bamburi beaches fall within the small Mombasa Marine Park, while beyond, the bustling town of Mtwapa is flanked by the sheltered Shanzu Beach. Then the beaches are broken by the wide mouth of Kilifi Creek, whose azure waters are a popular port of call on the international yachting circuit. The sleepy village of Watamu is fronted by a wide white sandy beach with several well-established resorts and the Watamu Marine Park, with its small offshore islands, has an excellent fringing coral reef that attracts a number of colorful fish. Further up the coast, Malindi has another set of idyllic tropical beaches; although seaweed can be a problem here, it's one of the few places on the East African coast where there are breaks in the reefs allowing rollers to come crashing onto the shore. The Malindi Marine Park offers reefs full of tropical fish, and you can dive and snorkel around Casuarina Point. In the extreme north, the island of Lamu has a lovely 13km (8-mile) isolated beach at Shela with perfect sand and no reef, which means substantial waves. Dhow safaris can take you beyond Lamu into the surrounding archipelago, where isolated villages, ancient ruins, and a few luxurious and exclusive resorts lie hidden among the islands of Manda, Siyu, Pate, and Kiwayu.
Southern Beaches: Not as crowded with resorts as the north, the southern coast is reached from Mombasa Island by a rickety old car and passenger ferry known as the Likoni Ferry, which only takes a few minutes to cross Mombasa Harbor. The coastal road then runs as far south as the Tanzania border at Lunga Lunga, about 96km (60 miles) south of Mombasa. The beaches are backed by lush green coastal forest with prolific birdlife and a variety of wildlife, including baboons and black and white colobus monkeys. Tiwi Beach is about 21km (13 miles) south of the ferry and has some large hotels popular with families and budget travelers; when the tide goes out, hundreds of rock pools are exposed and are ideal for children to explore. Further south, Diani Beach is one of the nicest on the coast with bright blue water and a long expanse of white sand. There are several reefs offshore that can be explored by snorkeling from a dhow or glass-bottomed boat, and you can wade out to the nearest ones at low tide to see the fish. Off the coast, Funzi Island is home to a luxury lodge popular with honeymooners, while the southernmost section of the Kenyan coast falls within the Kisite Marine National Park. The sea here is an intense turquoise blue and the park has a range of reefs and small islands where dolphins and turtles are regularly spotted. If you are staying at Diani Beach, day trips to the park are available that include dhow rides, snorkeling, and a seafood lunch on Wasini Island. The island is reached from the small fishing village of Shimoni on the mainland, which is home to a series of deep mysterious coastal caves that stretch from the sea to deep into the forest. Historically, these caves were used as a refuge for Arab slavers and explorers. Shimoni is also an excellent base for big game fishing in the waters of the Pemba Channel.
Culture & History
Kenya National Museum (Nairobi): A good place to learn about Kenya's history and culture, the museum has been closely linked since the 1960s to the work of archaeologist and anthropologist Dr. Louis Leakey, who made some key discoveries of human remains in East Africa. Permanent exhibitions cover Kenya's cultural and scientific history from pre-history to independence, and next door is a snake park.
Railway Museum (Nairobi): Located at Nairobi's railway station, this museum has an impressive collection of locomotives and rolling stock you can climb on to, and there are some historical photographs and relics from old trains that cover the history of rail in East Africa. Some of the trains make occasional excursions into the Rift Valley.
Karen Blixen Museum (Nairobi): Famous as the author of Out of Africa, this museum is housed in Karen Blixen's former farmhouse "Bogani," where she lived from 1914 to 1931. It's also where the movie starring Meryl Streep was filmed, and the rooms are decorated with both original furnishings and movie props. There's a lovely cafe set in her farm manager's house, with tables scattered on the pretty lawns.
Lamu Museum (Lamu Town): The architecture of Lamu is uniquely Swahili, with narrow streets, balconied buildings, intricately carved wooden doors, and numerous mosques. The Lamu Museum is housed in one of the town's most attractive buildings, once used by the British colonial government. Look for rooms decked out with Swahili furniture, and the upstairs display on Lamu's maritime history and dhow building.
Fort Jesus (Mombasa): Designed by an Italian architect in the 16th century for the early Portuguese colonists, and later added to and altered by the Oman Arabs and the British, Fort Jesus played a key role in the control of the coast over the centuries. A steep ramp leads to a central courtyard; you can climb the ramparts, and there's a museum and cafe.
Gedi Ruins (Watamu on the coast): These are ruins from an early Swahili settlement thought to have been built in the 12th century but mysteriously abandoned by the 17th century. There are ruins of a palace, several large houses, and a mosque, and although no written information exists, it is presumed the townsfolk traded with visitors from all over the world, as Venetian beads and pieces of Chinese Ming vases have been found at the site. To date, the remains of 14 buildings have been excavated. Visitors can wander through the well-preserved streets, and there's an interesting museum with a cafe.
SWAHILI WORDS & PHRASES
Swahili English
Jambo How are you
Jambo sana Fine thank you
Habari How are things with you
Mzuri sana Fine
Karibu Welcome
Ahsante Thank you
Kula To eat
Chakula Food
Maji Water
Lete Hapa Bring here
Twende Let’s go
Kuja hapa Come here
Jana Yesterday
Bwana Mister
Bibi Madam
Leo Today
Ndio Yes
Kahawa Coffee
Nzuri Good
Polepole Slowly
Kushoto Left
Kulia Right
Kufanya To do
Maziwa Milk
Kesho Tomorrow
Hapana (La) No
Tafadhali Please
Ngoja Wait
Sasa Now
Pombe Beer
Wapi Where
Upesi Quickly
Chai Tea
Sukari Sugar
Chumvi Salt
Kiasi gani? How much?
Ngapi? How many?
Baridi Cold
Joto Warm
Mlima Mountain
Mto River
Moto Fire
Mgeni Guest
Kulala To Sleep
ANIMALS
Simba Lion
Ndovu Elephant
Kifaru Rhino
Chui Leopard
Kiboko Hippo
Nyati Buffalo
Twiga Giraffe
Punda Milia Zebra
Swara Antelope
Tumbili Monkey
Nyani Baboon
Mbuni Ostrich
NUMBERS
Moja One
Mbili Two
Tatu Three
Nne Four
Tano Five
Sita Six
Samba Seven
Nane Eight
Tisa Nine
Kumi Ten
Kumi na moja Eleven
Kumi na mbili Twelve
Money
The official currency in Kenya is the Kenyan shilling, not to be confused with the Tanzanian and Ugandan shillings, which are different currencies. The written abbreviation of the Kenyan shilling is either KSh or /=. Notes are 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 KSh, while coins are 5, 10, and 20 KSh. Kenyan shillings can be used to pay for most things, though U.S. dollars are accepted by airlines and some larger hotels and can be used to pay national park entry fees. The exchange rate has been pretty steady against the U.S. dollar in recent years and at present time it was about 75KSh to $1.
Currency Exchange -- Cash and traveler's checks can be exchanged at the major banks, money exchange houses, and some hotels. Both Nairobi and Mombasa's airports have 24-hour exchange services. The easiest currencies to exchange are U.S. dollars, British pounds, and euros. Do not change money on the black market; it is illegal and you risk going to a jail or being swindled.
ATMs - The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Most banks in Kenya have ATMs, and they are also being installed in petrol (gas) stations in Nairobi and Mombasa. However, in remote regions they are few and far between.
Credit Cards - Credit cards are a safe alternative to cash. They are widely accepted in hotels, souvenir stores, and upscale restaurants, and can be used to pay for safaris. If you're buying trinkets in a market or cigarettes at the corner kiosk, expect to pay in cash.
When to Go
Kenya can generally be visited year-round as it enjoys a temperate climate even during the rainy seasons. The best months for game viewing are generally the dry seasons, which are January to February and July to August. At these times vegetation is light and there is no surface water created by the rains that disperses the animals - instead they congregate around the remaining rivers and water holes. July to August is also the best time to see the wildebeest migration in the Masai Mara. Bird-watchers will want to visit in the winter months from October to April, when many birds migrate to East Africa from Europe. The coast can be visited at any time of year.
Weather - Although it straddles the equator, Kenya experiences a mixed climate because of its diverse landscapes. Generally, the hottest period is from February to March and the coldest is from July to August. The long rains are from April to June and the short rains are from October to December, but even during these times the rain usually pounds down for a few hours each afternoon and then the sun shines brightly again. However, low season in Kenya is usually during the long rains when prices drop at the game lodges by up to 50%.
Kenya's coast enjoys a tropical climate with average daytime temperatures of 30°C (86°F) and long hours of sunshine, making it a perfect destination for a beach vacation. It can get humid; during the day the humidity is tamed by sea breezes, but it can feel sultry at night. High season on the coast lasts from November to February, as it's a popular winter break for Europeans and airfares and hotel prices are at their highest. Average temperatures in Nairobi, which sits at an altitude of just over 1,000m (3,280 ft.), are around 25°C (77°F). In the far north, which is very dry and desert-like, temperatures can reach up to 40°C (104°F), while the Central Highlands, which lie between 1,220m (4,000 ft.) and 2,150m (7,000 ft.), have temperatures low enough for frost to occur and Mount Kenya has permanent snow at the top. Throughout Kenya, it's important to cover up in the evenings to ward off mosquitoes and the possible risk of contracting malaria.
Holidays
New Year's Day (Jan 1)
Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Easter Monday (Mar/Apr)
Labor Day (May 1)
Madaraka Day (June 1)
Moi Day (Oct 10)
Kenyatta Day (Oct 20)
Jamhuri (Independence) Day (Dec 12)
Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Boxing Day (Dec 26).
Health & Safety
Staying Healthy
Avoiding stomach upsets and protection against contracting malaria are the major health concerns when visiting Kenya. Travelers staying in luxury accommodations have a lower risk of becoming ill than backpackers, but by taking common sense precautions, most visitors to Kenya will have a healthy vacation. It's a good idea to visit your doctor at least 6 weeks before departure for advice on vaccinations and medical requirements. Any prescribed medication should be taken with you, as it may not be available locally in Kenya. Travel insurance that includes medical care and repatriation to your home country is essential.
Recommended vaccinations for Kenya are hepatitis A, typhoid, tetanus, meningitis, diphtheria, yellow fever, and polio. The hepatitis B vaccine is recommended for minors and for health care workers or others who might come in contact with blood. For more information, www.cdc.gov/travel/eafrica.htm
General Availability of Healthcare
Pharmacists in Kenya - especially in the big cities and tourist destinations -- are generally well trained and can prescribe remedies for common complaints like diarrhea or surface cuts. They should be able to recommend a doctor for more serious complaints. Brand names for drugs may be different from those at home, so it's best to bring prescribed medication with you.
The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The World Health Organization (www.who.int/en) is also a good source of information.
Common Ailments
Drink only bottled water, and stay away from ice cubes unless you know what kind of water they were made from. Hot beverages are usually safe, although milk for tea and coffee is not usually pasteurized and should be boiled. Luxury hotels and most restaurants that cater to tourists take adequate precautions when preparing food, but if you're in a cheaper establishment be wary of fresh, washed leafy vegetables and fresh fruit juices.
Sun & Heat -- It's essential to protect yourself from the sun while you're in Kenya, especially on the beach and during long, hot days on safari. Even in the rainy seasons, when it's overcast and cool, you can get sun burnt as Kenya straddles the equator and the sun is strong year-round. Slap on high-protection sun cream and wear a hat. When swimming or snorkeling, consider wearing a t-shirt to protect your back. There is also a risk of heatstroke, so to avoid dehydration drink lots of fluids throughout the day.
Bugs - Mosquitoes in Kenya can be annoyingly persistent, and there is the risk of contracting malaria, which can start with symptoms similar to extreme flu: dizziness, lethargy, fever, and headaches. If you feel any of these within 3 months of visiting Kenya, seek medical attention and take a malaria test. Before traveling to Kenya, it is essential for your doctor to prescribe malaria prophylactics, and you must take these for the required duration to cover your vacation. It's best to avoid mosquitoes as much as possible so bring along insect repellent, wear long-sleeved shirts and long trousers for evenings outdoors, and sleep under a mosquito net.
Other Health Considerations -- Don't swim in stagnant fresh water or walk barefoot on mud or wet grass because of the tiny bilharzias worm (schistosomiasis), which can dig its way through your skin and breed in your blood vessels. Practice safe sex or abstain.
What to Do if You Get Sick Away from Home
In the cities and towns, your hotel will be able to recommend a local doctor or hospital. Nairobi in particular has good medical facilities. Expect to pay for any medical services up-front or immediately after treatment; if you have international medical insurance, keep the receipts so your company can reimburse you. However, if you become seriously ill and require advanced medical attention or surgery, you should definitely fly home, since local equipment and training standards are still far below those in the West. Your travel insurance should include repatriation to your home country in an emergency. If you are traveling in remote regions or are on safari in the parks, you might be a long way from the nearest doctor. Within Kenya and based at Nairobi's Wilson Airport, the Flying Doctors Society of Africa (www.amref.org) provides evacuation from remote areas to the nearest hospital. You may want to consider a temporary membership if you are going off the beaten track.
Staying Safe
Theft - Always exercise caution; utilize your hotel's safe, don't carry valuables with you in busy downtown streets, avoid poorly lit and abandoned areas at night, and don't trust strangers with suspicious requests. When driving, never leave visible items in a parked car and drive with windows up and doors locked.
Drugs - While cocaine, heroin, and marijuana are present in Kenya, drug use is illegal and anyone caught with just a few ounces faces prison time and hefty fines. Foreigners receive no special treatment in this area and your embassy is unlikely to be sympathetic.
Getting Out of Trouble -- If you are robbed, lose your passport, or get into any kind of trouble, contact the police and then your nearest embassy or consulate right away. The Kenyan police are responsible for investigating and prosecuting local crimes, and to make an insurance claim, you will need a police report.
Fast Facts
Area Codes Kenya's country code is 254. Local major area or city codes are: Nairobi, 020; Mombasa, 041; South Coast, 040; Malindi, 042; Nakuru, 051; Nanyuki, 062; Naivasha, 050; and Kisumu, 057. If you're calling a cell phone number from abroad, you don't need to add the area code before the cell phone code.
ATM Networks Cirrus and PLUS ATM networks are available at almost all bank branches, but remember in remote areas banks are few and far between.
Business Hours Standard shopping and business hours are Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm, though many shops are open Sunday morning, too. Shops run by Asians may close on Friday afternoons. Bank hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm and Saturday from 8:30 to 11am.
Drugstores Pharmacies are ubiquitous in the towns and cities and usually open until 9pm. Pharmacies attached to hospitals are open 24 hours.
Electricity Outlets in Kenya supply 220-240 volts of electric current, and take square three-pin plugs (same as the U.K.). If you're bringing electrical equipment from the U.S., you'll need an adapter as well as a converter.
Embassies & Consulates All embassies are located in Nairobi, the capital: U.S., tel. 020-334142; U.K., tel. 020-714699; Canada, tel. 020-226987 and Australia tel. 020-445034.
Emergencies In an emergency, dial 999.
Internet Access Cyber cafes can be found in any sizeable town; in the city centers of Nairobi and Mombasa, they can be found on almost every street. Increasingly, hotels and resorts offer Internet access, though smaller cyber cafes are often cheaper.
Language While there are a number of local languages in Kenya, Swahili is the official language. However, English is taught in secondary schools, and apart from remote rural areas almost everyone speaks it. Some safari guides and hotel staff on the coast speak other European languages, too. Signs are usually in English.
Legal Aid Contact your consulate or embassy, who can refer you to a qualified English-speaking attorney.
Liquor Laws Alcohol is sold in bars, hotels, restaurants, and supermarkets with no restrictions. Away from the large resorts on the coast, small Muslim-owned restaurants may not offer liquor. The Lamu Archipelago is predominantly Islamic and largely non-alcoholic, save for a handful of European-run resorts and hotels.
Lost & Found To report a credit card stolen, place a collect call to Visa at tel. 410-581-9994, American
Express at tel. 623-492-8427, or MasterCard at tel. 636-722-7111 (all in the U.S.). You can have money wired to you via Western Union; there are agents in all of Kenya's larger towns and cities.
Mail The Kenyan postal service is cheap and reasonably efficient. An airmail letter will take about a week to arrive in Europe, and about 10 days to the U.S. The bulkier your mail, the longer it will take to arrive.
Newspapers & Magazines Kenya has a number of English-language newspapers, the best of which is the Daily Nation. The East African is a weekly newspaper covering news throughout Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda.
Smoking in public and in the workplace is banned in Kenya, although hotels provide smoking rooms, and most restaurants and bars permit smoking in designated places.
Taxes There's an 18% value-added tax on goods and services, and this is generally included in the prices.
Taxis Taking cabs is a comfortable way to get around and not very expensive by Western standards. But agreeing on a price with the driver before setting off requires a little bit of skill and research. Before you head out, ask at your hotel what your trip should cost. Besides regular taxis, there are bicycle taxis, which carry one person on a seat over the back wheel; and tuk-tuks, three-wheeled vehicles that can carry three people on the backseat behind the driver.
Telephones You can make international calls from public call boxes with a phone card, available at post offices. Hotels offer international calls, but remember you'll be paying a premium for these services. Cell phones are a way of life in Kenya, and you will be able to pick up roaming from a local provider on your own phone, though access is restricted in isolated areas. Alternatively, SIM cards and pay-as-you-go top-up cards are available everywhere from formal phone shops to street vendors. Call rates from Kenya to the neighboring countries of Tanzania and Uganda are charged at long-distance rates and not international. American and European toll-free numbers can't be called from Kenya.
Time Zone Kenya is 3 hours ahead of GMT, and 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time.
Tipping Wages in Kenya are generally low, so tipping for good service will be much appreciated. In general, you should leave a 10% to 20% tip at restaurants and bars, even if the service charge is already included. If you're staying at an up market hotel or lodge, tip a few Kenyan shillings to the luggage porter, the chambermaid, and the doorman if he hails you a cab. On safari, it's only right to tip your guide US$15 to $25 per day; this is normally done at the end of the Safari (last day).
Donations If you want to contribute to any cause in Africa, it's always best to make a donation to a reputable charity.
Water Although the water is not particularly dangerous, it can carry bacteria that can give you a bout of diarrhea, which could disrupt your vacation. Drink bottled water, order drinks without ice (unless you know that the ice was made with bottled or purified water).
Entry Requirements & Customs
Passports
Passports must be valid for at least 6 months after your departure from Kenya.
Visas
Nationals of the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Ireland, Australia, Russia and New Zealand require a visa to enter Kenya. Visas are available on arrival at the airports and road border crossings and are paid for in U.S. dollars, British pounds, or Euros. You'll need to fill out a form and wait in a lengthy queue. A single-entry visa valid for 3 months costs $25, and a transit visa valid for 7 days costs $10. If you are on an extensive safari in East Africa, note that you can move freely across Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda without the need for re-entry visas. This effectively means you need to buy only one visa for each of these countries and can travel in and out of them unrestricted. Up-to-date requirements can be found at www.immigration.go.ke or http://www.embassiesabroad.com/embassies-of/Kenya#8709
Customs
The import and export of firearms, narcotics, and pornography is illegal, as is the export of items made from animal by-products in Kenya such as ivory, turtle shells, and skins. The government has the right to charge duties on items brought in intended for re-sale, but personal items such as jewelry, laptops, and cameras can be brought in duty-free. There are no restrictions on the import or export of foreign currency, but as the Kenyan shilling (KSh) is not a hard currency, it cannot be taken in and out of the country.
Internet Access
Without Your Own Computer
Internet cafes in major tourist spots and in the towns and cities are easy to find. Hotels and lodges are increasingly offering Internet access to their guests, though this is usually more expensive than a street-side cafe. Although connection speeds from landlines can be slow, high speed internet is continually increasing and the cost is lowering; expect to pay little more than $1 per hour.
With Your Own Computer
Wi-Fi is catching on in Kenya and is already accessible at the airports, the Java chain of coffee shops and Hotel/Lodge lounges. If you're bringing electrical equipment from the U.S., you'll need a current adapter as well as a converter.
Regions in Brief
Most people visit Kenya to go on a safari or for a beach break or a combination of both. Most people arrive in Nairobi, and the majority of the game parks and reserves are within a day's drive of the city. Popular safari circuits include a couple of nights in the Masai Mara, combined with a night in both Lake Nakuru National Park and the region around Lake Naivasha, or a combination of 1 or 2 nights in both Amboseli and Tsavo. Longer safaris combine the Kenyan parks with those over the border in Tanzania's northern circuit, such as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Some European package holiday-makers may arrive in Mombasa for a couple of weeks on the beach, but there is the option to visit one of the parks close to the coast like Tsavo for a night or two. The more adventurous can explore the northern deserts or climb Mount Kenya.
Nairobi -- Kenya's capital with an elevation of 1,661m (5,450 ft.) has a population of between 3 and 4 million. It grew from a swampy railway camp in 1899 into the largest city between Johannesburg and Cairo and is today a thriving city with a clamoring street life. Its reputation for crime is not unfounded, but visitors on organized tours or staying at a half-decent hotel should encounter few problems, if any. The center is a clutch of skyscrapers, surrounded by both slums and up market leafy suburbs, and although it's not a prime tourist destination, Nairobi does have a number of good attractions. These include the Nairobi National Park, which can easily be explored in a half-day, and the adjoining David Sheldrick Animal Orphanage, where visitors can see baby elephants and rhinos. There's an interesting line of museums including the National Museum and the Karen Blixen Museum, and you can look a giraffe in the eye from a tower at the Giraffe Centre. Nairobi's most famous restaurant, The Carnivore, is worth a night out for a gut-busting experience.
Rift Valley -- The Rift Valley is a vast geological feature created by tectonic forces in the earth's crust, which runs approximately 6,000km (3,700 miles) from Syria, under the Red Sea, and through Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, and Malawi to Mozambique. In Kenya the valley is at its deepest just north of Nairobi and there are viewpoints on the Nairobi-Naivasha road. This region is dotted with lakes such as Elementaita, Baringo, Bogoria, and Nakuru. With no outlets, these lakes have a high saline content rich in algae and small crustaceans, which in turn attracts flocks of thousands of flamingos. The geological upheavals also resulted in the sprouting of volcanic mountains in the valley including Longonot and Mount Kenya.
Western Kenya -- The region to the northwest of the Masai Mara and bordering Uganda is one of the least visited areas of Kenya as there are no big game parks to attract visitors. Nevertheless, the hilly, fertile scenery characterized by strikingly green tea plantations is pretty, and it does have some impressive geographical features. Mount Elgon is the second tallest mountain in Kenya and straddles the border with Uganda and can be visited in the Mount Elgon National Park. Lake Victoria, at 67,850 sq. km (26,460 sq. miles) is the second largest freshwater lake in the world. It can be seen from the town of Kisumu, or wealthy fishermen can stay at one of the luxurious fishing camps on the lake's islands. The Kakamega Forest is the last patch of tropical rainforest left in East Africa. It's a 45 sq. km (18 sq. miles) swath of dense hardwood trees and tangled vines that is home to hundreds of species of birds and small mammals, many of which are not found elsewhere in Kenya. The tiny Saiwa Swamp National Park, which is only 2.9 sq. km (1.3 sq. miles), protects the rare and shy sitatunga antelope that spends much of its time semi-submerged in water.
Central Highlands -- Roughly covering the region north of Nairobi to Isiolo, which is considered to be the gateway to the parched deserts of Kenya's northern frontier, the central highlands have many attractions for visitors. The region is dominated by the 5,199m (17,052 ft.) Mount Kenya, which can be climbed on an organized 4-day hike. To the north of the mountain is the recently proclaimed Laikipia Plateau, a patchwork of spacious ranches that in the early 1990s removed their fences and turned from farming livestock to harboring free-roaming wildlife on the shared land. This has been Kenya's greatest conservation initiative in recent years, and today it has the biggest concentration of game outside the Masai Mara, with exceptionally healthy populations of rhinos and elephants. Visitors to this region need to be well heeled, as most of the lodges are in original farm homesteads where you will experience personal hosting by the ranch owners. To the west of Mount Kenya is the Aberdares National Park, which is not like your typical African game park as the terrain is moor-like, forested, and often shrouded in fog, though it has plentiful wildlife. It was here at Treetops, a camp within the park, that the British Princess Elizabeth learned about the death of her father and became queen.
Coastal Kenya -- Kenya's coast is a playground for mostly European package tourists on sun, sea, and sand holidays, and for good reason. The 480km (300 miles) of Indian Ocean shoreline boasts sublime white-sand beaches, shady palm trees, sunny weather, warm water for swimming, and a colorful chain of offshore fringing coral reefs. Away from the beach, the towns have some historic reminders of the influence of African, Arabic, and European cultures on the coast, and the proximity of Tsavo National Park offers game viewing just a few hours’ drive away. Located on an island and with a string of beach resorts to the north and south, Mombasa is Kenya's second largest city. In the old town is a labyrinth of narrow twisting alleys and Fort Jesus, built in 1593 by the Portuguese to guard the entrance of the harbor. Further north, Malindi offers good snorkeling on the reefs, while the island of Lamu retains its timeless atmosphere in the winding streets of crumbling Arabic villas where there are no cars and donkeys still meander through the narrow lanes.
Southern Kenya -- No trip to Kenya is complete without visiting one or more of the major parks and reserves located along the border with Tanzania to the south of the country. The Masai Mara Game Reserve is an extension of Tanzania's Serengeti National Park, and this region of well-watered grassland plains stages the spectacular annual wildebeest migration, when hundreds of thousands of hoofed animals follow the rains and fresh pasture. They are followed by the predators: hyenas, lions, wild dogs, and vultures, and in the Mara River giant crocodiles lie in wait to pounce when the herds cross the river. Kilimanjaro provides a stunning backdrop to Amboseli National Park where a unique ecosystem supports a wide variety of game that is easy to spot. The combined Tsavo East and Tsavo West national parks is the biggest protected wildlife refuge in Kenya, with vast rolling plains and scrubby vegetation that is home to large herds of game, especially elephants.
Northern Kenya -- The vast parched and stony deserts of northern Kenya are a sharp contrast to the green, fertile land of the Central Highlands. Remote and isolated, it's the least visited part of the country; access is difficult, in recent years it has suffered from drought and parts have been occupied by refugees from war-torn Somali and Sudan. Unfortunately, much of the area is also troubled by inter-tribal violence and banditry, and tourists should take local advice before traveling in the region. It's home to numerous ethnic groups such as the Samburu, Turkana, and El Molo people, whose lives have hardly been touched by the modern world, and one of the most striking sights are the large herds of camels roaming the barren landscape.
Samburu National Park is the only stop on the traditional tourist circuit in this region, although Lake Turkana and Marsabit national parks are gaining in popularity. Samburu is home to some unusual animals not found further south like the Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, and gerenuk, a small antelope that reaches up to trees on its hind legs to feed. The forested hills around Marsabit are a sanctuary for the giant eland, while Lake Turkana supports the largest population of Nile crocodiles in the country and is famous for its brilliant color and is often dubbed the Jade Sea.
Events
Kijani Festival - March (annual)
The Kijani Festival brings world-famous performers to venues in Nairobi and around the country, including the Carnivore Restaurant, Nairobi Arboretum, Fort Jesus in Mombasa, Hell's Gate in Naivasha and the Mt Kenya Safari Club in Nanyuki. The Kijani Kenya Trust was set up in 2004 with the aim of bringing internationally acclaimed music and cultural events to Kenya and to educate and raise funds to support Conservation and HIV/AIDS projects in the country. http://www.kijanikenyatrust.org/
Whale Shark diving – March (annual)
February in Kenya marks the beginning of the Whale Shark season. Dive sites near Diani, Malindi and Watamu offer a unique opportunity to see these magnificent creatures, renowned as the world's largest shark. An easy surface drift dive offers a close encounter with these shimmering giants. Nicknamed Papa Shilingi by the locals ("the shark covered in shillings"), whale sharks can be as long as 18 meters and weigh as much as 20 tones. Despite their monstrous size, they feed only on plankton and are completely harmless.
Kenya Open Golf Championship – April (annual)
One hundred and fifty golfers compete in the annual Kenya Open. The tournament, played at the Karen Country Club in Nairobi, is part of the Challenge circuit run by the PGA European tour.
Safari Rally Kenya – April (annual)
The Safari Rally Kenya is the second leg of the FIA African Rally Championship and takes place in the tough and dusty terrain in and around Nairobi.
Lewa Marathon – June (annual)
The annual Lewa Marathon is run through the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy near Mount Kenya. Around 1000 runners from across the world take part in full and half marathons and 100 children compete in the 5km fun run. The marathon is run over two 21km loops, at an average altitude of 5500 feet above sea level. The heat and the dirt roads combine to make it a very stiff challenge.
Rhino Charge – June (annual)
Rattling through the African bush, a map juddering on your knee, brush crashing around your ears amid the danger of territorial animals... you're on the Rhino Charge, an annual 4WD rally race held in the Kenyan bush. The event raises money for Rhino Ark, who play a large part in the protection of Kenya's Aberdare National Park. Set within the Aberdare mountain range, this park is one of Kenya's largest forest and mountain ecosystems and protects one of its largest black rhino populations. http://www.rhinoark.org
Wildebeest Migration (Wonder of Nature) July-October (annual)
For many it is the wildebeest that best characterize the struggle for survival in the harsh environment of the great African plains. These ungainly animals, pursued by hungry predators, migrate clockwise from the Serengeti to the Mara, round and back again in a never-ending quest for fresh pastures. See the show from the vantage point of a jeep as part of a safari. The Masai Mara National Reserve is where much of the action takes place. Between the months of July and October, with a lemming-like instinct, gelled into dusty, snorting mass movement, the beasts leave the withering plains of the Serengeti in favor of the lush green grass of the Mara. They arrive in July and August, pouring dramatically across the Sand River and into the eastern side of the reserve around Keekorok, where they gradually munch their way westwards in a milling, unsettled mass, finally turning south again in October.
Maralal Camel Derby – August (annual)
The Maralal Camel Derby is an annual event held in the Northern Region of Kenya, which is sunny, dry and has a favorable climate for these wonderful creatures. It is also a spectacular festival packed with a variety of events that draws visitors from all over the world.
Kwani Literary Festival- August (annual)
The Kwani Literary Festival presents a variety of interactive events and forums, including creative writing workshops, panel discussions, lectures, book signings and readings taking place at various venues in Nairobi. The event annually attracts the finest novelists, authors, journalists and publishers from around Kenya and the continent. Workshops, dinners and symposiums feature on a program that also includes literary safaris and sailboat excursions. http://kwani.org/
Nairobi International Trade Show – September (annual)
The Nairobi International Trade Show at Jamhuri Park showcases the best of Kenya's commerce and agriculture. Regional, continental and global exhibitors display and demonstrate their services and products. There is also a full entertainment program including displays by the Armed Forces of Kenya.
Concours d'Elegance – September (annual)
Every year hundreds of classic cars and motorcycles take part in the Concours d'Elegance at Nairobi Race Course. Kenyan and overseas competitors flaunt everything from Volvos and Volkswagens to Porsches and Alfa Romeos. There are ten different classes for cars and six for motorcycles. Judges inspect the vehicles and no nook or cranny is left unexamined. At the end of the show there is a procession of all the cars around the course, the highlight of which are the pre-1940s vehicles.
International Book Fair – September (annual)
The annual International Book Fair in the exhibition hall of Nairobi's Sarit Centre offers discussions, poetry and readings from guest speakers, as well as countless newly published titles.
Kenya International Film Festival – October (annual)
The Kenya International Film Festival at the Goethe-Institut Nairobi is annually gaining increased international significance with a program focused on screening African productions. The event also features themed evenings and guest speakers.
Mombasa Carnival – November (annual)
The Mombasa carnival features parades and floats from every conceivable cultural and religious group in Kenya. There are two main parades which converge onto Moi Avenue which feature incredible floats, costumes and music. The main stage features local bands and dancers, with the smaller stages giving you the chance to see local traditional Kenyan dances. There are many stalls selling arts and crafts and for your further entertainment a sailing regatta is held along the seafront.
Crafts of Africa – November (annual)
The annual Crafts of Africa show, at Nairobi's Sarit Centre, offers a huge range of artisans' produce on display and for sale, ranging from wood carvings and leather items to glass, gourds, sculpture and paintings.
Kenya Music Week – December (annual)
Kenya Music Week at Nairobi's Sarit Centre presents a full program of live music and offers the Kenyan music industry an excellent opportunity to market their goods and network.
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